Eat Local, Eat Well

Gourmet Mushroom cultivation in North Carolina

Edible, gourmet mushrooms are fast becoming a main crop for some N.C. farmers who sell mushrooms at farmers markets and roadside produce stands. Presently, there are more than 300 N.C. farmers growing gourmet mushrooms right here in the state, these farmers have been well trained by local agricultural universities, in the art and science of growing edible mushrooms.

Most of the varieties of gourmet mushrooms produced in North Carolina are grown on hardwood logs, preferably oak, poplar or maple logs. Mushroom cultivation on hardware logs is a very "sustainable" food crop to produce. Sustainability is measured in the amount of resources used to grow a crop from start to finish. Gourmet mushroom cultivation on hardwood logs requires minimal resources. First and foremost, mushroom production doesn't rely on fossil fuels, and the hardwood logs used to grow the mushrooms can be limbs cut in the normal care and maintenance of trees, or limbs gathered after storms. There is a requirement however, that the logs be freshly cut, (not old firewood), in order to get the mushrooms to fruit!

N.C. farmers, who have been trained by our local universities in the science of growing mushrooms, strictly adhere to good grower practice standards; for example, they use mushroom spawn only produced in local university labs, and the farmers must submit to inspection requirements of local agricultural cooperative programs and agricultural agents. 

There are two main varieties of mushrooms commercially produced in N.C.: the Shiitake mushroom, an Asian variety (pronounced "shee-tah-kee") and the Oyster mushroom, a variety common to eastern United States. Each of these delicious gourmet variety of mushroom has its own individual taste and look, with the shiitake mushroom having the traditional cap and stem, whereas the oyster mushroom somewhat resembles a shell, hence the name oyster mushroom.

To grow mushrooms the farmer must endure labor-intensive process, and also adhere to the right environmental conditions requirements, such as the appropriate amount of moisture and shade. Inoculating the hardwood logs with the mushroom spawn strain is the first step the farmer must perform, this step is typically done in the winter months when the sap in the trees, and logs, is down. Organic mushroom spawn is used along with a special inoculation tool, and other organic materials are required. After the mushroom log inoculation process is complete, it may take anywhere from six months to two years before the mushrooms actually begin to "fruit" on the logs, a term that describes when the mushrooms emerge from the hardwood log bark. Mushroom's fruit in the fall and spring, when the weather is cool and damp.

Mushrooms are a very versatile and healthy food, and there are many recipes they can be used in. The size of the mushroom is a consideration for your recipes; for example, the smaller mushrooms are best used in sauces and salads. Medium size mushrooms are great for stir-fry, and larger sized mushrooms are perfect on the grill, suitable as a steak substitute. When sautéing mushrooms in the frying pan, a good method is to cook them in olive oil, at slightly higher heat, so that the mushrooms will "give up their liquid" rather quickly. They can then be simply seasoned with fresh herbs such as a sprig of oregano or rosemary. Bay leaf is also a good herb to use when making mushroom soup, as noted in the recipe below.

We hope this brief article on N.C. mushrooms will be interesting to you as you plan your Thanksgiving dinner. 

Mushroom Soup

1/4       cup butter

1          medium chopped onion

4          cloves garlic, minced

2          bay leaves

2          tsp. snipped fresh rosemary

1          lb. mushrooms (preferably NC grown)

2          cups chicken broth

2          cups cream

2          Tbsp. olive oil

In a large saucepan melt butter.

Add onion, garlic, bay leaves and rosemary. Cook over medium 5 minutes or until onion is tender.

Add mushrooms and cook and stir 5 minutes.

Add broth, bring to boil.

Reduce heat, simmer uncovered 5 to 10 minutes or until mushrooms are tender.

Remove bay leaves. Add cream. Cool slightly.

Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Deb and Randy Bettini are farmers who practice sustainable agriculture, are certified beekeepers, and charter members of the NC Mushroom Growers Association.  They live on a fourth generation Italian - American farm, "Bettini Farm," in Browns Summit, NC. www.bettinifarm.com. They have been frequent visitors of Topsail for most of their lives.